This week’s featured garment comes from a pattern by Cynthia Guffey, #5010, Shawl Collar Jacket.
This short jacket with shawl collar ends with one button at the waist line and four curved bust darts that originate in the armscye in the front and back. Cynthia's instructions are pretty bare-boned and assume a certain level of sewing expertise. These were fine for an intermediate to advanced sewer (which is who this pattern is rated for).
Things I particularly like about this jacket: It is a great short length (my favorite), is well-drafted, has attractive and unusual curved darts in the front and back and a shawl collar that goes together perfectly and is very flattering.
I also loved the hem finish which, by the way, has no instructions other than "Hem the jacket". There is a cut out along the CF hem so the facing can be folded to the right side and sewn with a seam, then the rest of the hem turned up. You would have to know what to do here since the instructions don't tell you. If I were to make this jacket again I would line it.
Fabric Used: The jacket is made from a brown wool with a twill weave. The collar is made from a plush corduroy (almost chenille-like) both purchased from Guss Woolens in Baltimore.
I particularly like that Cynthia's patterns fit me very well with almost no altering. Several years ago I spent a week with Cynthia in Louisiana learning her pattern alteration method. I used that technique to alter this pattern. I increased the shoulder slopes and added a small upper back curve. I shortened the length of the sleeves. I redrew my own facings rather than make the alterations to those pieces, too.
Conclusion: A great little short jacket with lots of style and good drafting.