Patch Pocket with Bow

With some stitching and folding, this oddly shaped pattern piece becomes a cute patch pocket with a tied bow.  The grid underlying the pattern piece is 1" square.  You can use that as a guide to draft your own pattern piece, or you can copy and print this picture, scaling so it prints out at full scale.  You can also scale the size down if you'd like to use it on small children's clothing.  The example in the following pictures was made at 80%; remember that your seam allowance will be smaller if you scale it down.  At 80% the seam allowance ends up being 0.5 inches. 

You will need two pieces of cut fabric for each pocket you wish to make.

Mark each pocket piece with the circles and squares noted on the pattern.  The far right marking, above, is the square, the other two are circles.

Close up of markings.

Place two pocket pieces right sides together and sew from the edge to the square, back-tacking at the beginning and end of the stitching.

On the opposite side of the pocket, sew to the circle.

Fold the pocket along the fold lines marked on the pattern piece, folding the tie pieces in half and matching raw edges.

Beginning at folded edge, stitch tie area and continue stitching to the circle.  Repeat on other side.  You will need to fold the rounded edge of the pocket out of the way to keep it clear from stitching.

Close up of stitched area.

Trim the seam and clip the curves.

Press open the seams.  Match the two seams that were sewn in the first step (sewing to the square and circle) right sides together, matching the remaining raw edges.  The piece should look like a pocket shape on the bottom with two ties on the top.

Beginning at the upper fold, stitch around the perimeter of the pocket, ending at the other folded edge.

Turn the pocket through the opening above the square.  Push out the tie ends (a knitting needle or chop stick works well) and press the pocket flat.  If you wish, whip stitch the opening above the square (or position the pocket so this opening is on the inside of the pocket.)

Place your pocket onto the item you wish to sew it to.  Stitch from the top edge of the pocket around the perimeter, ending at the other top edge.  Be sure to backstitch to reinforce the top of the pocket.

Tie the two loose ends into a bow.

Repeat as needed and enjoy your bow pockets!

Princess Seam Pockets

This is my favorite pocket, and when I am making a princess line garment, I almost always add these pockets to it. The process requires a bit of pattern work but it is very straightforward and easy.  These pockets can be added to any type of garment with princess lines, a top, jacket or dress.  You may need to adjust the measurements given to suit your own proportions.  If drafting a jacket, make the bottom of the pocket end just above the hem allowance.  These instructions are for a pocket with a slalnted opening which I find the most visually pleasing but feel free to make the pocket opening straight across if desired.

• The only changes are made to the side front piece.  On this pattern piece mark the waist (if no mark is given it is the narrowest part of the pattern piece).
• Draw a point 2 inches down from the waist along the edge with the bust curve
• Draw a point 4.5 inches down from the waist along the other vertical seam
• Connect these two points with a line. Label this line “Line A”.
• Draw points 10.5 inches down from waist along both seam lines.  Connect these two points.  Label this line “Line B”.

• Lay a piece of tracing paper over the pattern piece. Trace Line B and all of the lines of the side front piece above this line [pink] (do not include Line A). Make sure you draw a grainline on the new pattern piece.  Add a seam allowance below line B.  Label this new piece “Upper Side Front”.

• Lay another piece of tracing paper over the pattern piece. Trace Line A and all of the outside pattern lines below this line [blue] (do not include line B). Make sure you draw a grainline on the new pattern piece.  Add a seam allowance above line A.  Label this new piece “Lower Side Front”.

• Lay another piece of tracing paper over the original pattern piece.  Trace Line A and Line B and the outside pattern lines between these two lines [green].  Add a grainline.  Add a seam allowance to both Line A and Line B.  Label this new piece “Pocket Facing”.

• You will not use the original pattern piece.  You should now have three separate pieces (upper side front, lower side front, and pocket facing). This is approximately what your three pieces will look like:

CONSTRUCTION

The accompanying pictures are examples that I hand sewed.  The same procedure is used for machine stitching.

• If desired, pin piping or ruffle to the top, slanted edge of the lower side front, matching raw edges, right sides together. Baste in place.

• With right sides together, pin slanted edge of pocket facing to upper edge of lower side front, sandwiching ruffle in between layers.  Stitch.  Press seam open then press facing to inside. Topstitch below ruffle if desired.

• Open out pocket facing and with right sides together, pin lower (unstitched) edge of pocket facing to lower edge of upper side front.  Be certain to align so that the highest point of the upward slant on the pocket edge will be along the bust curve side of the upper side front.  Stitch.  Do not press this seam open.

• Fold lower side front down over pocket facing to form pocket, having raw side edges even.  Baste along the two vertical sides through all layers.

• Attach the front to the side front section.  The pocket will lie best and be less bulky if this seam is pressed towards the center front.  Clip the seam allowance just above the pocket; press the lower portion toward the center front and the upper portion open.

• Construct remainder of garment as usual.

Medicine Cup Kissing Ball

This is my attempt to recreate a Christmas decoration from my childhood.  You can read the blog post associated with these instructions here.

Here's what you will need:

Mini plastic cups -- you can use medicine dose cups or, do as I did and collect cups used for communion at my church.  These are a bit smaller than the medicine cups.  I used about 120 for this project.

4-inch styrofoam ball

Paper clip

Flame source (a candle works well)

Glitter

White glue

Snowflake sequins

Sequin pins

Ribbon

2 wood floral picks with wire

Green wool blend felt

Green wool roving

Variegated green thread

Pearl beads

Sewing thread

Begin by melting a small hole in the bottom of each cup.  I used a paper clip to do this (bend one end out straight).  My first thought was to choose a very fine paperclip so the hole would not be too big.  That was a mistake.  I ended up having to re-do the holes with a larger clip so the hole was big enough to accommodate the pin that will go through it.  I lit a candle so I could easily re-heat the wire after every one or two holes.

Next, it’s time to glitter the edge of the cups.  Assemble your supplies:  two paper plates, white glue and your chosen glitter. 

I originally planned on using a clear/white glitter.  Here are the plates, one with a blob of glue and the other with a pile of glitter, and some of the finished cups.  Simply dip the open rim of the cup into the glue and then into the glitter.  Stand on end and allow to dry.

After finishing a number of the cups in the clear glitter I decided it would not have enough presence in the finished product.  So, I pulled out my other glitters and did a little test.  Here are four different colors of glitter that I auditioned:

In the end I chose the pale green in the lower left corner (the darker green in the upper right was more like the kissing ball I remember from my childhood).

While the glue and glitter dry make your ribbon bow for hanging.  I used a pale green iridescent ribbon.  Fold the ribbon with one long loop (for hanging) and two shorter loops and wire the bow onto a wooden florist pick.

After the hanger is made push the pick into the Styrofoam ball but do not glue it into place yet.  It is easier to install the cups on the ball without the hanger in place so remove it once you have made the hole.  Use the pick to make a similar hole on the exact opposite spot on the sphere – this is where the mistletoe will go which will be made later.  So, if the sphere is hanging from the ribbon loop the other hole will be facing directly down from the bottom of the sphere (see the picture at the top of this post).

Gather your pins and sequins.  I used snowflake sequins though you could choose to use another shape if you like.

Here are the supplies you will need for the next step:  your glittered cups, an extra cup filled with white glue, pins, sequins, a short piece of dowel (or a pencil), and a hemostat (I found this invaluable for placing the pins in the cups).

Place a sequin on a pin and pick it up with the clamp then place the pin through the hole you melted in the bottom of one of the cups.

Hold the pin head and sequin down in the cup and dip the sharp tip of the pin into the cup with glue.

Press the pin into the Styrofoam ball.  I found it helpful to balance the ball on a small cup.

Use the dowel or pencil to make sure the pin is pushed in as far as it will go.  Continue to cover the entire Styrofoam ball in this manner, but do not cover the holes where the hanging loop and mistletoe will go.  Set the ball aside to dry well.

MAKING THE FELTED MISTLETOE

The internet is full of tutorials for making felt mistletoe.  My pattern comes from the magazine Quilting Arts Gifts, 2010.  I adapted the instructions for my own use.  You can purchase a download of the original instructions here.

I began by cutting out some mistletoe shapes from wool felt. 

Using the green wool roving (I used a variegated variety with several shades of green) cover one side of the felt pieces with a thin layer.  Needle felt the roving to the felt layer (I used a needle felting machine but this can also easily be done by hand). 

Continue adding and needle felting the roving onto the felt base.  Turn the piece over and add roving to the back as well.

This is the completed piece.

Using the green variegated thread, add some vein detail to the leaves with a machine straight stitch.  Hand sew pearls in place as desired.  I made two leaves and placed them back-to-back.

Wire the stem of the leaves to another wooden florist pick.

Once the cup-covered ball is dry, coat the wooden picks with glue and press them into the previously made holes.  Allow these to dry well before hanging.

French Bias Piping Tutorial

This is an easy and attractive way to finish a neckline or armhole with piping while providing a seam finish that can replace a facing.  These instructions assume the use of a 5/8” seam allowance.  Adjust accordingly if you are using a different width.

Begin by cutting a bias strip of fabric 3 inches wide and the length needed for the edge you wish to apply the piping to.  Piece the strips together if necessary.

Fold the strip in half lengthwise, matching long cut edges, and press.

Cut a piece of cording a little longer than the strip of fabric.  I like to use #1 rayon satin cord (also called mouse tail) for my piping.

Place the cording down the center of the folded strip and make a second lengthwise fold, encasing the cording.  You will be bringing the folded edge over to match the two raw edges.  I use a 5-groove pintuck foot to make piping (a 3-groove foot works just as well).  Place the cording in the center groove and move the needle over just enough to clear the cording.  Stitch closely to the cording making sure to not catch it with your stitches.  Feel free to use whatever method you prefer for making the piping.

You now have a length of piping with a 5/8” seam allowance (did you know the end of your 6” seam gauge is 5/8”?). 

Place the wrong side of the piping (the seam allowances with the raw edges) along the right side of the fashion fabric, matching the raw edges.  In the picture above I am holding back the folded edge of the piping so you can see the raw edges matching up with the underlying fabric.

Sewing through all layers, stitch directly on top of the previous row of stitching, attaching the piping to the fashion fabric.

Taking care not to cut the folded edge of the piping, trim the piping and fashion fabric seam allowances.  The picture above shows a portion of the seam allowance trimmed.

Fold the piping seam allowance to the wrong side, allowing the piping to roll to the edge. Press.

The inside of the garment shows the folded edge of the piping while the cut edges are sandwiched in between.  If necessary you can tack the piping to crossed seam allowances inside the garment.

Santa Pin Tutorial

Here you’ll find the instructions for making a holiday pin like this one.  Please use these instructions as inspiration, and create your own, one-of-a-kind work of art.  Start with a large item for the background, then layer on feathers, pearls, beads, flowers, whatever pleases you.  Then add a focal point on top.

Here’s what you will need:

This is a glittered netting available at craft stores around the holidays.  It comes in lots of colors:  white, silver, gold, red.

Some floral picks (I used ones that were covered in silver glitter), pearl sprays and feathers.

For my little Santa faces, I used Evy Hawkins' Holiday Button Covers from A Bit of Stitch.  I stitched these out on silver colored dupioni silk, then covered a Dritz button cover with the design.  You will need one for each pin you wish to make.

You will also need about half yard of strung pearl roping (this usually comes on a roll like ribbon), some craft wire,  a pin back and a hot glue gun with glue.

Begin by making the net background.  Unroll the netting into a single layer and cut a piece about 12 inches long.

Scrunch the piece into a flattish tube.

Wrap the netting around your hand, overlapping the cut ends by an inch or two.

Twist a small piece of wire around the center of the netting, securing the cut ends and crimping the center a bit.

Gently fan out the folded edges of the netting loop like you are fluffing a bow.

Cut a piece of pearl roping 16” to 18” long.  You are going to form a triple loop.  Use your hand as a guide for forming the loops.  The first pass wraps around two fingers, the second pass around three fingers, and the third pass around four fingers, as in the picture below.  Overlap the two ends by an inch.

Twist a piece of wire around all strands, securing the two cut ends.

Using the photo below for guidance, assemble the components of the pin.  Lay down the netting background and glue on the feather and the pearl spray.  The feather should hang down off the bottom right of the pin in approximately the 4:00 position.  The pearl spray should be oriented at the top left at approximately the 10:00 position.

Next add the floral element straight up at the 12:00 position.  The pearl loops hang down at the 6:00 position.

Glue the Santa button in the very center, covering all of the glue used to attach the other elements.  Turn the pin over and attach a pin back with glue or by sewing.