Alabama Chanin Stitchin'

Over the summer, when my sewing studio was nothing but a mountain of boxes, I spent most of my sewing time doing hand stitching.  For a while now it has been obvious to me that what I need in my wardrobe is more basic pieces that I can mix and match.  Not only would this increase the items in my closet, it would decrease the items in my stash, namely the large collection of recycled t-shirts I am storing.  I have been very fortunate over the years to find many matching shirts at thrift stores, and these shirts are perfect for creating basic tops and skirts, as well as smaller accessories, Alabama Chanin style.

It is pretty amazing to me how quickly you can hand stitch a garment, though the binding of the neckline and armholes takes a fair amount of time.  This single-layer corset top was created from a couple of recycled t-shirts.  The hem was left unfinished, as is typical of AC garments, but I am considering binding it with leftover binding to keep it from rolling so much.  Double-layer garments seem to lie better at the hem.

I used the herringbone stitch for the binding and employed my homemade Tiger Tape to keep my stitches evenly spaced.  I am hoping to make several more garments along this line before summer arrives.

I also finished up a project that I started last year, and that I alluded to in this post.  The fingerless gloves were made from two t-shirts; the underlayer is black, the outer layer chocolate brown.  The pattern is available in Alabama Studio Sewing + Design.  I stenciled them with the Bloomers pattern from Alabama Stitch Book in black paint and stitched them in reverse applique.  These gloves only require two t-shirts, one of each color, and are a great project to get you started in upcycling.

I'm in the preparation phase for my annual sewing retreat which is happening in a couple of weeks.  I have quite an ambitious list of projects for this year.  I am very much looking forward to seeing my sewing friends and to having some "quiet" time away to get some sewing finished.  Wish me luck getting everything cut out and packed.

Corset, Chanin style

I have finally completed a project that I’ve wanted to try ever since I bought Natalie Chanin’s first book Alabama Stitch.  One of Alabama Chanin’s best-selling and most-beloved designs, the corset, “is designed to show off a woman’s best assets and enhance her natural curves. It is cut low in the front, the neckline and armholes are bound, and the back hem (measuring approximately 22 1/2” from the center back neck) is slightly longer than the front hem.”  The pattern and instructions are included in the book.

I started with four sleeveless white t-shirts that I picked up at the thrift store.  White shirts are difficult – even if just gently worn they often show stains – so try and find ones that are new.  I was lucky and found four identical white men’s t-shirts that had never been worn.

I cut two layers of each pattern piece from the tees as well as binding for the neck and armholes.  The entire top is sewn by hand.  Each seam is hand sewn and then hand felled.  The binding is also sewn on by hand using the Cretan stitch.

I made the top exactly by the pattern since it was my first rendition.  It needs a few tweaks to perfect the fit, changes I made on the paper pattern for next time.  I will also raise the neckline just a bit.

I love how this garment feels when it’s on.  It is super comfortable, and there is something about the double layer of fabric that gives it stability and hugs your body in a different way than a standard t-shirt.  Someone asked me how long it took to make this, and they were surprised when I told them eight hours.  Sure, it’s not the 1-hour tee that you can whip up on your serger, but for a completely hand-crafted garment, eight hours is not that much time to commit to.

I encourage you to try this (or another) garment inspired by the folks at Alabama Chanin.  I think you will love the way they fit, feel and flatter.