An A-Line Dress for Summer

Christine Jonson’s A Line Dress is one of those deceiving little numbers.  It might not look like much on my dress form but on the body it transforms into something truly special.  I never fail to get compliments on this dress when I wear it out in public.  The dress is made from a knit which makes it as comfortable to wear as a nightgown.  The fit is fairly close in the upper body area and then flares just the right amount to skim over any “trouble spots”.   The dress can be made with or without the diagonal contrast section, an element I particularly like, but pay close attention when matching the two bands at the side seams.  The neckline and armholes are simply turned and stitched, making this a very simple dress to put together.

I hope everyone reading this is enjoying some summer sewing (if it is summer where you live J).  I’m still working on some swimwear and hope to have something to show for my efforts soon.   I’ve also been busy planning for and making samples of the crafts I’m going to teach in a couple of weeks at my church’s Vacation Bible School (I love this job).   I’d love to hear what you’ve got on your worktable.

Knit Tops from Jalie

This is an article I wrote a while back for my American Sewing Guild Chapter's newsletter.

Several years ago, I took a class with Sarah Veblen entitled Getting Comfortable with Knits.   I considered myself a fairly advanced sewist, but sewing knits had always daunted me.  Immediately following the completion of the class, armed with my new skills, I boarded a bus bound for New York City and proceeded to add several dozen pieces of knit fabric to my stash.   Those pieces have been aging now for over five years. 

When I look at my ready-to-wear wardrobe what I find is knit tops.  But when I sew I usually create more complex garments such as jackets and dresses.  Following the birth of my second son I was anxious to start sewing again but my time was much more limited.  While visiting PatternReview.com I kept coming across rave reviews for Jalie Patterns.  This Canadian-based company, specializing in patterns for stretch knits, is known for easy-to-sew garments with a fashion-forward look.  I formulated a new sewing goal:  create some knit tops for my wardrobe while using up some of my existing stash and practicing the techniques I had learned for sewing knits.  I ordered eight patterns (after all, when you buy three you get the fourth free).  I decided to make each top twice, the first time straight from the pattern, the second time with any needed changes.  Here I review the first two patterns I made. 

Most Jalie patterns are sized for stretch knits and come in multi-size format, typically more than 20 sizes per pattern, 2T through Women’s 22.  The instructions are brief but the illustrations are very clear and you can print an extra set from Jalie’s website.  Most of the patterns include multiple sleeve variations (I found you could mix and match sleeves between patterns) and many include an optional modesty panel.  Seam allowance is ¼”.

The first top I tried was 2787, the Criss-Cross Top.  This shirt featured three sleeve variations (flutter, flared ¾, and sleeveless), can be worn as a maternity top and can be sewn with nursing access. 

For my first version I chose the ¾ sleeves and used a copper novelty knit with multi-colored flowers.  I constructed the top entirely by serger.  I serged clear elastic along the edges of the crossover panels for stability then topstitched with a twin needle.  I loved how this top turned out but alas, the fabric has not held up well to washings. 

For my second attempt I used another novelty knit, a light purple with a puckered surface, fused onto a stable underlining.  I used dark purple foldover elastic to bind the edges of the crossover panels and sleeve hem and liked how this finish highlights the crossover curves.  I substituted a sleeve from one of the other patterns.  Both of these tops are great as nursing wear.

I later made another version of this top and I posted about it here.

Next, I made 2449, the Crossover Top.  This top features a crossover neckline with neckband, optional asymmetric hem and short or ¾ sleeves. 

My first version used a piece of knit fabric which I got at an ASG fabric swap or sale (probably at Jane Selewach’s house).  It was a remnant of black, pink, purple and coral stripe.  I combined it with a black cotton/lycra knit, using the stripe for one side of the front, one sleeve and one neckband, the black for the remaining pieces.  I used the ¾ sleeve (which I felt was too short) and shortened the overall length of the top by 2 inches.  The neckband goes up to the shoulder seams but not around the back of the neck.  A lump tends to form where the band transitions into the back neckline.  One PatternReview-er suggested using fusible bias tape along the back neckline which I did and it helped.  I also used the straight-of-grain fusible tape along the hems and finished with a twin needle. 

My second version of this top was made from a lovely Oriental print acetate/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I chose the asymmetrical hemline to enhance the Asian flair of the top, and used the flared ¾ sleeve (shortened slightly) from the Criss-Cross Top.   I did not shorten the overall length in order to use the asymmetrical hem and the top turned out too long.  I did not want to sacrifice the asymmetrical hem by shortening so instead I ran gathering stitches along both side seams, creating ruching across the front and back at tummy level (added bonus:  pleats help hide my post-baby belly).  Both of these tops also work well as nursing wear.  They show more cleavage than I like so I layer them over a camisole.

If you want to learn more about sewing knits for yourself, you can sign up for Sarah Veblen’s Getting Comfortable with Knits class.  See Sarah’s website for more details.

The Criss-Cross Top

When I describe myself as a sewist, I typically say that I am primarily a garment maker.  This is a bit ironic given I haven’t made a garment (for myself) in almost a year.  For one thing, I have been carrying around some extra pounds left over from my last pregnancy and I have not been anxious to sew clothes that might not fit at a later time.  I’ve now reached my goal weight and am anxious to sew a few new items for my wardrobe.  I have a fun dress all designed in my head which I am hoping to finish before the weather becomes too warm to wear it (though that would be a nice problem, wouldn’t it?)  The other day I put on a knit top that I made last year when I was nursing and was reminded how much I like the pattern.  I decided that I would “test drive” the fabric I’ve planned to use for the dress by making another version of this top.

The pattern I used is The Criss-Cross Top (#2787) by Jalie Patterns.  This Canadian-based company, specializing in patterns for stretch knits, is known for easy-to-sew garments with a fashion-forward look.  Most Jalie patterns are sized for stretch knits and come in multi-size format, typically more than 20 sizes per pattern, 2T through Women’s 22.  The instructions are brief but the illustrations are very clear and you can print an extra set from Jalie’s website.  Most of the patterns include multiple sleeve variations (I found you could mix and match sleeves between patterns) and many include an optional modesty panel.  Seam allowance is ¼”, and the tops are easily constructed on the serger.

Both fabrics that I used for this top are cotton/lycra blends with 4-way stretch.  I decided to bind each unfinished edge instead of hemming.  My reasoning was two-fold:  first, I like the way the contrast fabric highlights the gentle curves of the criss-cross panels.  Second, I found when making an earlier version of this top that the neckline turned out too low when the edges were turned under and stitched.  I did not trim off the seam or hem allowances before applying the binding which gave a bit more coverage.  I did shorten the top overall.  

This pattern goes together quickly and nicely, and is very comfortable to wear. 

Stay tuned for the dress.