Tabula Rasa Jacket, Take One

I have been wanting to make this Tabula Rasa jacket pattern for such a long time.  So many of my friends have turned out version after version of this wonderfully-drafted, casual fit jacket (with a fabulous square armhole!).  Plus, I really love the gals who designed this jacket and who have come up with so many variations that it never looks like the same jacket twice.  Rae Cumbie and Carrie Emerson are the gals behind Fit for Art Patterns, the independent pattern company that produced the Tabula Rasa Jacket and variations, plus several other patterns.  Not only have they designed a stylish jacket with exceptionally good instructions, they also provide fitting services through their booth at the sewing expos they frequent.  When I purchased my pattern at one of these shows I was able to try on a muslin version of the jacket to determine the correct size.  Then Rae offered other suggestions for me to try (move the shoulder line forward 1/2-inch, shorten the hem lenght 1", etc.).  This gave me enough confidence to cut out my first jacket from some good (though not precious) fabric.

I chose a brown silk noil which has been in my stash for years.  I knew that the fabric would need some help to keep the jacket from looking flat and boring.  I decided that the band and optional cuffs would be the perfect place to add a little embellishment.  I love hand stitching and decided to pull out my sashiko stencils and return to a technique I learned years ago from Nancy Shriber.  I traced the design onto a layer of flannel that I then used to underline the various pieces. 

The thread I chose is a beautiful, hand-dyed perle cotton with a wide range of colors from cream through camel to dark brown, with some pink specks and even occasionally some aqua.  As many of you know, I like a very tone-on-tone look and this project is no exception.  In fact, this stitching is extremely subtle, even for me. 

I also decided to stitch the same design on the side panels, and used the same thread to saddle stitch the hems and around the bands and cuffs.

I am very pleased with how this jacket turned out and have another planned using a lovely kimono panel I bought at a sewing expo last fall.  I think this versatile pattern will see a lot of use from me.

Contemporary Sashiko Jacket

Nancy Shriber is one of those teachers with the unique capacity to inspire, nurture and instruct in a way that always leaves her students wanting more.  I had the good fortune to take one of Nancy’s Contemporary Sashiko classes a number of years ago.  In this weekend-long workshop I learned to paint silk, and then transform that fabric, through hand stitching, into a unique work of art.  The weekend began on Friday night when all of us gathered with our wet silk and applied textile paint and just a sprinkling of salt to create the canvas for our project.  Almost immediately I learned a “Nancy-style” lesson:  when the fabric I had intended for the lining turned out to be the more beautiful of the two pieces I painted,  I changed tack and used it, instead, for the outer fashion fabric.  

The rest of the weekend was spent designing our garment, cutting our fabric, layering it on flannel and finally, stitching by hand our chosen design with lovely hand dyed threads.  Nancy also encouraged us to make the interior of our garment as beautiful as the outside.  Out came more paints, stencils, stamps and lots of creative ideas.  At the time I was taking this class, my husband and I were (somewhat desperately) trying to have a baby.  I decided I would use this jacket as a positive affirmation project.  When I created the lining (the inner life of my garment, as Nancy would say) I stamped Asian characters with a positive message and hand painted the words they represented (hope, believe, change, dream, transformation).  At Nancy’s suggestion I also added a little treasure pocket made from organza.

I chose Loes Hinse’s lovely Kimono Jacket as my pattern.  I carefully marked the sashiko design that I wanted to stitch on the flannel side of my project, matching the patterns across seam lines.   I created a sort of landscape effect, with water along the bottom topped by rocks and grass and finally a geometric pattern for the sky above. 

For the next several months I carried my jacket pieces with me and stitched at every opportunity.   I added metallic thread and beads to portions of the stitching.  When I was finished I constructed the garment, adding velvet lapel bands in a matching blue color.

Here’s my confession:  I’ve never worn this jacket (in fact, there are still pins holding the lining hem in place).  This is a great example of making a garment that is the wrong style for me.  I will probably finish it one day and wear it – it is the sort of garment that you can’t get away with wearing too many times as it is pretty memorable.  I put many, many hours of work into this jacket but I don’t feel at all sad that I have not worn it.  I view it as a piece of artwork that I made with my own two hands.  I loved every single minute I spent creating it and every single stitch I put into it.  It was the process, not the result, that was truly the prize.

Sharing today over at Today's Creative Blog's Get Your Craft On Tuesday.  Come check out all of the great inspiration.

Bag of the Week 37

Kimono Tote

This beautiful bag was designed by Nancy Shriber who specializes in sashiko quilting with a contemporary feel.  I have taken many classes from Nancy and she is one of the most gifted and inspiring teachers I know.  She has been featured in Threads magazine and lectures and teaches around the country.  This pattern, described as a tote bag inspired by a traditional Japanese Kimono, is part of her Garment Series line.  I chose a lovely watercolor-inspired fabric for my bag and accented it with contrasting silk dupioni.  The band around the center mimics an obi, and I accented it with a Chinese coin.  I also machine quilted the base fabric, following the natural color pattern of the fabric.  I made this bag for a silent auction several years ago.