Julie Bowersett

juliebowersett{at}gmail{dot}com
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Entries in sculpted fleece (2)

Friday
Feb202015

Fingerless Gloves in Sculpted Fleece

I recently wrote about some fingerless gloves that I made for a friend for Christmas using the techniques of Alabama Chanin.  I really liked how they turned out, and they started me thinking about making a pair for myself to slip on when I am stitching (or typing blog posts).  One thing I love about being a maker is taking inspiration from one source and using other, different techniques to create an entirely new product.  I did just that with my houndstooth/paisley skirt, combining an Alabama Chanin stencil with wool felt applique instead of the more expected cotton jersey.

For my own gloves I again started with a Chanin stencil but I used an entirely different technique for the applique, sculpted fleece.  I love Lyla Messinger's technique for making polar fleece appear carved or sculpted.  I have made a number of items using this technique and blogged about those pieces here. 

The pattern for the gloves comes from Alabama Stuido Sewing + Design with a slight modification.  Instead of cutting two pieces for each glove, I eliminated one seam and cut the glove as a single piece.  This made the applique process much easier and reduced some bulk but I did lose some shaping from that seam.

For this technique, it's important to use a fleece that has two distinctly different faces.  The black fleece I used had one side with a micro-grid design and the other with a berber-like finish.  Once the gloves were cut out I began by applying the stenciled design.

I used temporary spray adhesive to hold the stencil in place.  I transfered the design to the smooth (right) side of the fabric using Quilter's Stencil Marking Spray, a chalk-like spray that washes out with water. 

This marked the placement for the applique pieces.  I also transfered the stencil to another piece of fleece; these pieces were the shapes that were appliqued onto the gloves.  Here's what the various pieces looked like after the stenciling was finished.

Working one section at a time, I cut out the pieces for the applique and pinned them in place over the corresponding design on the gloves.  The nubby back-side was placed face up on top of the smoother side of the fleece.  I used black sewing thread on top and in the bobbin (you can also use invisible thread) and zigzagged around the edge of each shape.

That's really all there is to it.  It is a very simple and forgiving technique that leaves people wondering how you accomplished it.

To finish off my gloves I took some lycra fabric strips and applied them like binding to the thumb and finger openings as well as the bottom edge.  Knits are notorious for stretching out along cut edges, fleece being no exception.  I felt this would give those edges some stability.

Once the binding was applied I stitched the seams, right sides together, and my gloves were complete.

I hope you will try this technique on a project of your own or use my ideas as a jumping off point to combine two (or more) ideas into a new and unique project all your own.

Saturday
Jan142012

Sculpted Fleece

I first learned this technique in a class I took with Lyla Messinger (L.J. Designs) many years ago.  Lyla has a wonderful book called Ordinary to Extraordinary that details this technique along with many other fun and easy ideas to add uniqueness to your garments. 

I've used this technique on several garments.  It is most effective when you use fleece that has two different face textures.  You can often find fleece with one smooth and one nubby side.  Then it's as simple as cutting shapes from the fleece and appliqueing them onto the garment.

My first attempt was a vest which I made from a blue double-faced fleece.  The designs also come from Lyla Messinger; she sells a pattern with several geometric shapes that can be used as appliques.  I added binding along the center front, neckline, hem and armholes with the contrast side of the fleece showing.

Next I made a jacket from a red heathered piece of fleece and appliqued leaf designs on the back, front and one sleeve.  The design for this jacket was based on an OOP pattern by Nancy Zieman.  I found the commercial pattern too large for me so I re-drafted it using my Pattern Master Boutique software to better fit my frame.  I made the button loop using one of my favorite notions, a FasTurn tube maker.  I love this jacket and still wear it.  I have fond memories about the time I made this.  I was at one of my first sewing retreats with the Richmond ASG Chapter in Appamattox, VA (where I first met my sewing buddy, Jane).  I finished this project (with lots of help from the other ladies there) but had no buttons that were appropriate.  On my way home after the weekend I stopped in Charlottesville and found the perfect buttons at Les Fabriques.  Good times!

More recently I revisited this technique when making some winter hats for my two boys.  I started with a Kwik Sew pattern and cut the main pieces from fleece.  I then cut lots of various sized circles and appliqued them on with the contrasting side showing.  I used invisible thread on the top and an all-purpose thread in the bobbin (one of my sons is especially particular about "pokey" things which the invisible thread can occasionally be).  I used a zig zag stitch and an open-toed embroidery foot.  Once the main part of the hat was appliqued I finished the construction.  I was hoping to post a picture of these hats in use but haven't been able to slow my two boys down enough to snap a picture yet.

Try this technique on your next fleece project.  I think you'll like the subtle, tone-on-tone quality of this detail.