Bag of the Week 31

Hand-dyed Tote

A number of years ago our ASG Chapter held a challenge.  Everyone who wished to participate was asked to create a tote bag from one of Nancy Zieman’s (then free) patterns.  At our annual meeting everyone brought their bag to show off.  It was amazing to see how everyone interpreted this simple tote bag.  Lots and lots of creativity.

At that time I was very interested in hand dying fabrics.  I had dyed a number of fabrics in a graduated colorway between pink (red) and blue and had just completed a vest using some of these fabrics.  I had lots of scraps left over so I decided to use them in this project.

The bag features a flying geese pieced panel around the top and folded prairie points below.  I embroidered my initial using variegated thread in the same colors (but I must admit I didn’t care for the striped effect I ended up with).  There is an external pocket with a zipper closure between the handles. 

I’m planning a detailed series of posts on the hand dying procedure and showcasing some of the other projects I made with this same fabric.  Check back.

Window Treatments for a Nursery, Part 2

The Valance

In Part 1 I showed you how to make a wooden cornice board and now it is time to create the valance.  The fabric I worked with is a lovely drapery weight dobby, a microcheck print with a woven diamond pattern over top.  The fabric was easy to work with and the pattern easy to match.  In fact, I let the pattern dictate many of the design decisions such as where to place the pleats, choosing a spot that would allow for easy matching.  "Length" and "width" are confusing terms on something like a valance.  I will use length to refer to the longer measurement, the "running length", if you will, and width (or sometimes drop) to refer to how long the valance is from top hem to bottom hem.

I began by measuring the top edge of the cornice board from where it meets the wall, around the front and to the other wall.  This will be my finished valance length.  I determined how many and what depth of pleat I wanted (3 pleats at 3-inches each).  I added the extra length needed for each pleat to the total length of the measured cornice and added 2” for seam allowances.  (PS:  it helps to draw diagrams of this as you go along, listing the various lengths).   I wanted my finished drop to be approximately 9 inches.  I cut the fabric that width plus 1” for the bottom hem, ½” for the top hem and 1” for seam allowances.  I adjusted this width slightly based on the pattern repeat – I wanted the top and bottom edges to fall along a repeat line.

Cut your lining the same length as your outer fabric but cut the width 1.5” less than the width of the outer fabric. 

Before I cut the fabric I checked my plan by folding a pleat in the fabric.  I found that I would need to adjust the pleat width just a fraction to accommodate the pattern repeat.  In the end I cut the fabric pieces longer than I needed so I could determine the finished length after the pleats were installed.  If possible, cut your fabric on the lengthwise grain (railroading) to avoid piecing; if this is impossible then piece the fabric so the join falls inside one of the pleats and is therefore unnoticeable. 

Here are my outer and lining fabric pieces laid out on my cutting table.

Align the long edges of the lining and outer fabrics and stitch together with ½” seam.  When you turn the fabric right side out the hems will turn up to accommodate the shorter width of the lining fabric.  I pressed a 1” hem at the bottom edge and a ½” hem along the top edge.

I measured the front edge of the cornice board and found the center, marking it with pencil for ease of installing the valance later.  I drew a diagram of the valance and labeled the front part with this measurement.  I found the center and marked it (pleat #1) and then placed the two other pleats equidistant on either side of the center, approximately centering them on the remaining width.  Again, I adjusted these dimensions slightly during construction to accommodate the pattern repeat.  

I made the first pleat in the center of my fabric strip, marking the placement with one of my favorite notions, Clo-chalk.   

I carefully pressed this pleat and basted the top edge.  I then marked, pressed and basted the other two pleats.

Once the pleats were in place I could measure from the center to both ends and mark the final, total length, allowing 1” on each end for the side hems.  I folded in each end ½ twice and top stitched.

I applied the loop side of a piece of Velcro (the hook side had been applied to the cornice board previously) along the top edge, topstitching through all layers of the pleats. 

I covered  three 1-1/8” buttons for each valance with contrasting fabric and hand sewed them to the front of each pleat.

Next week I will write about the Roman shades I made to accompany this valance.



Bag of the Week 30

Traveling Bags

Summer is the time for travel, and this week’s featured bag is made just for that.  I originally made this bag and its twin as carrying cases for my sewing machine using (out of print) Simplicity 7087.  I discovered my machine fit into the bag just fine as long as I left the hard cover off but that seemed to defeat the purpose (leaving my machine more vulnerable while traveling) so I decided to use these bags as travel bags instead.  They hold the perfect amount of clothes and toiletries for a weekend away.  The bags measure 16” wide x 9” deep x 12” high.

The fabric came from a G Street Fabrics upholstery remnant table.  I love the aqua/taupe color combination. 

The bags are given extra support with a layer of fusible fleece and a piece of foam core which is inserted between the lining and the outer fabric on the bottom of the bag.  The contrast fabric forms a pocket with three compartments on both long sides of the bag.  I substituted a heavy jacket zipper for the button/loop closure suggested in the pattern.

I’m happy I was able to repurpose these bags when my original idea didn’t work out as I had planned.  In retrospect I have gotten many, many more miles of usage from these soft suitcases than I would have as machine transport bags.

Bag of the Week 29

Carolyn’s Tote Bag

Another friend asked if I would make her a tote bag and here is the result.  Carolyn’s Tote is made from the much-loved scraps of an upholstery project.  The fabric is a cotton/rayon blend with a small woven floral repeat.  The darker contrast and lining is a cotton twill.  Carolyn provided me with a reusable shopping bag which she likes the size of, and I created a pattern based on the dimensions of that bag.  The bag measures 12 inches wide by 13 inches tall by 8 inches deep.  I decided on a contrast bottom to add some interest but also to aid in hiding dirt.  The two outer pockets with curved edge are designed to hold a water bottle or umbrella.  Piping neatly finishes the top edge of the pocket and the entire bag.

When constructing the bag I first had to decide how to apply the contrast bands along the bottom edge.  I realized that stitching the bands as separate pieces would allow me to apply them on the pockets, thus allowing the pockets to run the full depth of the bag.  The challenge then became to match the four corners of the contrast bands for a professional finish.  I found that basting an inch or two above and below this crucial intersection and checking the match before stitching the entire seam assured a perfect match.

The lining contains two pockets, both on the larger sides of the bag.  One runs the full width and depth of the side.  I found this needed a snap at the center top to keep the pocket from gaping open.  The other pocket runs the entire width of the bag but is only about 6 inches deep.  It is sewn into three separate compartments and designed to hold phone, sunglasses, etc. 

Bag of the Week 28

Golf Shoe Bags

More shoe bags this week, these designed to hold a pair of golf shoes.  I used a heavy weight fabric for these such as denim or duck and added a golf-themed embroidery on the front.  I began with two rectangles of fabric, approximately 18” x 13”, sewed them together and boxed the bottom.  The top edge is turned under and a piece of Velcro is added for the closure.  A carrying handle was added at the top.  These embroidery designs came from Embroidery Library.