Knit Tops from Jalie

This is an article I wrote a while back for my American Sewing Guild Chapter's newsletter.

Several years ago, I took a class with Sarah Veblen entitled Getting Comfortable with Knits.   I considered myself a fairly advanced sewist, but sewing knits had always daunted me.  Immediately following the completion of the class, armed with my new skills, I boarded a bus bound for New York City and proceeded to add several dozen pieces of knit fabric to my stash.   Those pieces have been aging now for over five years. 

When I look at my ready-to-wear wardrobe what I find is knit tops.  But when I sew I usually create more complex garments such as jackets and dresses.  Following the birth of my second son I was anxious to start sewing again but my time was much more limited.  While visiting PatternReview.com I kept coming across rave reviews for Jalie Patterns.  This Canadian-based company, specializing in patterns for stretch knits, is known for easy-to-sew garments with a fashion-forward look.  I formulated a new sewing goal:  create some knit tops for my wardrobe while using up some of my existing stash and practicing the techniques I had learned for sewing knits.  I ordered eight patterns (after all, when you buy three you get the fourth free).  I decided to make each top twice, the first time straight from the pattern, the second time with any needed changes.  Here I review the first two patterns I made. 

Most Jalie patterns are sized for stretch knits and come in multi-size format, typically more than 20 sizes per pattern, 2T through Women’s 22.  The instructions are brief but the illustrations are very clear and you can print an extra set from Jalie’s website.  Most of the patterns include multiple sleeve variations (I found you could mix and match sleeves between patterns) and many include an optional modesty panel.  Seam allowance is ¼”.

The first top I tried was 2787, the Criss-Cross Top.  This shirt featured three sleeve variations (flutter, flared ¾, and sleeveless), can be worn as a maternity top and can be sewn with nursing access. 

For my first version I chose the ¾ sleeves and used a copper novelty knit with multi-colored flowers.  I constructed the top entirely by serger.  I serged clear elastic along the edges of the crossover panels for stability then topstitched with a twin needle.  I loved how this top turned out but alas, the fabric has not held up well to washings. 

For my second attempt I used another novelty knit, a light purple with a puckered surface, fused onto a stable underlining.  I used dark purple foldover elastic to bind the edges of the crossover panels and sleeve hem and liked how this finish highlights the crossover curves.  I substituted a sleeve from one of the other patterns.  Both of these tops are great as nursing wear.

I later made another version of this top and I posted about it here.

Next, I made 2449, the Crossover Top.  This top features a crossover neckline with neckband, optional asymmetric hem and short or ¾ sleeves. 

My first version used a piece of knit fabric which I got at an ASG fabric swap or sale (probably at Jane Selewach’s house).  It was a remnant of black, pink, purple and coral stripe.  I combined it with a black cotton/lycra knit, using the stripe for one side of the front, one sleeve and one neckband, the black for the remaining pieces.  I used the ¾ sleeve (which I felt was too short) and shortened the overall length of the top by 2 inches.  The neckband goes up to the shoulder seams but not around the back of the neck.  A lump tends to form where the band transitions into the back neckline.  One PatternReview-er suggested using fusible bias tape along the back neckline which I did and it helped.  I also used the straight-of-grain fusible tape along the hems and finished with a twin needle. 

My second version of this top was made from a lovely Oriental print acetate/lycra jersey from Gorgeous Fabrics.  I chose the asymmetrical hemline to enhance the Asian flair of the top, and used the flared ¾ sleeve (shortened slightly) from the Criss-Cross Top.   I did not shorten the overall length in order to use the asymmetrical hem and the top turned out too long.  I did not want to sacrifice the asymmetrical hem by shortening so instead I ran gathering stitches along both side seams, creating ruching across the front and back at tummy level (added bonus:  pleats help hide my post-baby belly).  Both of these tops also work well as nursing wear.  They show more cleavage than I like so I layer them over a camisole.

If you want to learn more about sewing knits for yourself, you can sign up for Sarah Veblen’s Getting Comfortable with Knits class.  See Sarah’s website for more details.

Back to School

I vividly remember getting new clothes to wear on the first day of school when I was little.  I also seem to remember they were always inappropriate for the weather – corduroy and velveteen even though the thermometer indicated it was still summer.  My boys are too young to appreciate news clothes (oh, wait!  They are boys.  They will probably NEVER appreciate new clothes) but nonetheless I made them something new to wear for their first day at school yesterday.  Last year I made my oldest a little outfit of shorts and matching shirt and he wore it to school that day and never again so this year I took a little different approach.  I used purchased t-shirts and embroidered on each and that was that.  It took little time and they turned out cute.  Plus they can wear them for a while until the weather turns cool.  For my oldest I used an appliquéd tree frog design (his class this year is the Frogs)

and for my little guy I made an appliquéd elephant.  Both designs are from Embroidery Library. 

Since someone has already asked I will tell you I used Floriani No Show Nylon Mesh Fusible on the back of the design.  I also fused a second layer over the back of the stitched out design on my fussy older son’s shirt to prevent any scratchiness.  This stabilizer works really well on knit t-shirts and keeps everything nice and stable for stitching.

Bag of the Week 36

Giraffe Tote

This week’s project is a little bittersweet for me.  It marks a milestone in my youngest son’s life as he starts preschool on Monday.  His current favorites are giraffes (which he calls ffff-ffff) so I made him this little tote bag to carry his lunch to school and his projects home.  He was pretty excited the first time he saw it!  I used some “hand-me-down” green corduroy fabric for the base of the bag and a super stiff denim for the lining which gave enough body that I didn’t have to interface.  I piped the top edge for more stability and as an attractive way to transition between fabrics.  The giraffe design was modeled after a coloring book drawing and is fused, then satin stitched to the bag.  I used a selvage strip for the mane and clipped it at close intervals.  You might recognize the fabric from my post earlier this week – it is Frolic from Sandy Gervais by Moda.

Color Play

Today I share a spot of bright color.  The projects I have been working on recently are not blog-worthy (or picture worthy).  They mostly involve cleaning out closets and entire rooms in my house.  When I moved into my house four years ago I designated one of the basement rooms as a craft room but it has been nothing more than a storage room for all of that time.  Recently I have reached “critical mass”, so to speak.  I am frustrated at my inability to find things I know I own and often resort to buying more since that is easier than unearthing the missing items.  So I have been trying to unpack boxes, create storage and generally whip things into shape in that room.  But like any project, to clean one room usually means to clutter another (I always think of that tile game I played as a kid with one empty space to move tiles to) so this project will take some time to complete.  I’ll post a picture when I am finished.

The colorful bits above, though, are one project I have finished amidst all of the chaos.  Next Wednesday, September 15, I will be teaching the program at my local American Sewing Guild Neighborhood Group meeting.  We will be making kanzashi flowers (you can see some examples by clicking on the Kanzashi tab in my Category listing) and I have been prepping all of the necessary materials.  So this is also a little sneak peek for those of you who are coming to the meeting – these are the fabrics and buttons we will be working with.  I love how these fabrics work together.  They are from Sandy Gervais’ Frolic collection by Moda.

I hope to see lots of you at the meeting next week and look forward to seeing what you create with bits of colored fabric.

Bag of the Week 35

The Jitney Tote Bag

With the summer season drawing to a close I chose to feature this bag this week because of its versatility and usefulness in carrying books and other school supplies and also because it features an apple-themed fabric which makes me think of back-to-school.

Several years ago I took a class at the Original Sewing and Quilt Expo from Tammy O’Connell of Peacock Patterns (then Jitney Patterns).  The class was entitled The Perfect Tote Bag and Tammy had clearly put a lot of thought into what would make a bag perfect.  According to her website this pattern is sized for a woman’s frame, is ergonomically designed and can hold a large amount of items in an organized fashion.  It is awfully pretty to look at, too. 

At that same Sewing Expo I picked up a couple of tapestries that one of the vendors was selling (these were HOT that year) and decided to combine them with some decorator fabric to create my own perfect tote.  Here are some of the features of this pattern:

• Customizable pockets on the inside of the tote include organizer pocket with hidden Velcro opening, business card pocket, pen/pencil sleeve, waterproof umbrella sleeve, drink sleeve, cell phone/sunglasses pocket;
• Designed to be a comfortable size/length for carrying on the shoulder on in the hand;
• Zippered top gusset which folds down into the bag to create an open topped tote;
• Attractively piped outside pocket;
• Sturdy construction;
• Designer look with leather handles.

I love how this bag turned out but learn from my mistake:  use a sturdy fabric for the inner pockets.  I used a quilting weight cotton and they just don’t have the necessary body.  If you choose to use a lightweight cotton I recommend using a fusible interfacing like Décor Bond to increase the stability of the fabric.  Tammy sells the leather handles on her website along with this and other patterns.