A Short Rant

Blame it on my grumpy mood this evening (my husband left yesterday for a three-week business trip, and I was home all day for a "holiday" with two little boys, one of whom is sick) but I'm a little bit peeved at the commercial pattern companies.  I've spent quite a good bit of time in my sewing room the last few days, though I have little to show for it.  I've been working on fitting patterns (something I'm not very good at), making and tweaking muslins.  I now have three nicely fitted patterns that I can sew from.  I also took advantage of the holiday sales at the local fabric store and bought several new patterns.  They were all from the Amazing Fit line of Simplicity patterns which promise a "customized fit in all key areas".  Here's where the trouble begins. 

I've read through the instructions provided, including the sections for choosing the right sized pattern.  I applaud the fact that they provide separate pattern pieces to fit A through D cups, as well as slim through curvy figure types.  But how they imagine they will achieve their claim of Amazing Fit using the age-old (read: wrong) method of pattern sizing is beyond me.  I know from my recent pattern work (and lots of experience) that the top part of me wears a size 8 in commercial patterns.  According to their fitting instructions I should be choosing a size 12 (actually I am between a size 12 and 14).  The instructions go on to tell you that there is 3-1/2" of ease in the bust.  Does this picture look like there is 3-1/2" of ease in the bust?

And who wants to wear a dress with 3-1/2" of ease in the bust?  Not only is it bad advice to use the full bust measurement to size a pattern, with separate pattern pieces for different cup sizes they've just made the problem even worse!  Everyone probably knows (and hates) the woman who wears a petite size 4 with a 38 D bust.  That woman would follow the instructions given and make a size 16 dress.  The extra inches need to fit her size D cup are already accounted for in the pattern piece with a D cup!  Many of us know to use our high or upper bust when figuring our pattern size but the pattern companies never make this suggestion, leading new or inexperienced sewers to certain failure from the start.

This pattern line has some lovely designs, and I can't wait to fit the patterns and sew up some muslins.  Thankfully I'll save myself some grief and start with a size I know I wear.  But shouldn't the pattern companies come up with some new guidelines to help ensure that everyone truly achieves an Amazing Fit?

Vintage Treasures

I came home from a recent visit with my family toting some new old finds.  My sister gave me a box of old sewing patterns and a bag of wool yarn.  Now, I am not sure what, if anything, I will do with these treasures but vintage items are always fun to look at, and sometimes you learn a thing or two.

I sorted through the box of patterns and pulled out four “Big Four” patterns from the 1960’s

along with six patterns from a company called Spadea. 

Now, I had never heard of Spadea so I did a little internet research.   The most inclusive information can be found in this article at Fuzzy Lizzy Vintage Clothing.  The creators of Spadea Designer Patterns worked with fashion designers in the 1950’s and 60’s to create sewing patterns taken from ready-to-wear garments.  These patterns were unique in their sizing (using RTW sizing) and appearance – there are no printed markings on the pattern pieces, everything is punched or notched and the pattern pieces come precut. 

The previous owner of my patterns must have been a Dinah Shore fan since most of the patterns carry that stars name.

The yarn I received has an interesting history as well.  It was manufactured by the Quinnehticut Woolen Company in Taftville, CT. 

In 1995 the New York Times ran an article about the rebirth of this company under new ownership, who believed in the revitalization of the textile industry.

This lengthy article details the history of the Ponemah Mill (meaning "our future hope," from Longfellow's "Song of Hiawatha"), the mill village of Taftville (all of the original structures are still standing and on the National Historic Register) and the revival under new owners in 1990.  Sadly, it appears that the mill is no longer in operation and has been turned into luxury condos and retail space.  The wool I own looks ideal for felting, one of my favorite things to do with wool yarn.  I might also use it in a needle felting project – I have not put my embellisher to much use recently.  Regardless, I certainly have a rainbow’s worth of lovely colors to choose from.