Paisley and Houndstooth

Who knew that paisley + houndstooth is a match made in heaven?  Here’s the story of my discovery.

Photo from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design

I waited (notice that I did not say patiently) for many months for the release of Alabama Chanin’s latest studio book, Alabama Studio Sewing + Design.    When it arrived it was even more beautiful than I thought possible.  In this third book, Natalie Chanin and her staff have truly given away all of their secrets.  The book is a compendium of all of the various techniques used to create the lovely line of clothing they produce from their workshop in Florence, Alabama.  This latest in the series is meant to complement the other two books though it can easily stand on its own as the only resource you need.  Inside the cover you will find details on the materials and tools needed, eleven stencil designs, a myriad of stitches with illustrations, full-sized patterns for 4 garment pieces that can be constructed in a number of ways plus several accessory pieces, and enough embellishment ideas to keep you busy for the rest of your life.  Even if you have no intention of using the book to make garments or accessories, the photographs alone make this book worthy of the coffee table.  It is, in short, 175 pages of pure inspiration.

Photo from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design

Photo from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design

This book arrived while I was working on my blue wool crepe dress.  As sometimes happens, I start thinking about my next project while I’m still working on an unfinished one.  This time I dreamed of using more wool crepe from my stash since the current piece I was working on was such a dream to sew.  My mind was also busy mulling over all of the possibilities opened up for me from reading Sewing + Design.  What came out of that brainstorming is this skirt.

My fingers were busy with wool while I was thinking about organic cotton appliqué.  Why couldn’t I substitute wool felt for some of the appliqué designs from the book?  Wool felt has a lovely weight and doesn’t fray; it would make the perfect embellishment for my wool skirt.  I found some loosely woven black wool crepe in my stash and threw it in the washer and dryer a couple of times.  It felted up very nicely.  I also decided on the Paisley design that is include as one of the stencil patterns in the book.

Photo from Alabama Studio Sewing + Design

First I started with the skirt.  The pattern is Simplicity 2058 from the Amazing Fit series.  After fitting my muslin I cut the skirt from a loosely woven wool houndstooth check in classic black and white. 

I knew the fabric would need to be underlined if I was going to apply appliqué so I cut the underlining from charcoal gray silk organza.  I used the technique of underlining and seam finishing all in one that I’m fond of.  It makes for a beautifully finished garment interior.

Once the skirt was constructed (I left one seam unsewn, allowing for a flat panel to work on) I started the hand appliqué.  Alabama Chanin’s techniques include using stencils as the means of transferring designs to cloth.  Several ways to accomplish this are included in the book but I tried something different for this project.  First, I printed out the paisley design from the full-sized download available on the Alabama Chanin website.  I then copied it onto freezer paper and cut out the stencil with an Exacto knife.  This left me with both a positive and negative stencil. 

I used the positive stencils, shown above, to cut out the black wool felt.

Next, I took the negative stencil, centered it on one skirt panel and ironed it into place.  I removed the paper backing from the black felt appliqué pieces and positioned them in the openings of the negative stencil.  The photo below shows one of the appliqué pieces pinned in place.

After all of the pieces were placed I carefully removed the negative stencil paper and hand stitched each appliqué in place with a parallel whipstitch and black buttonhole craft thread. (I quickly discovered it was easier to work with small safety pins rather than straight pins to keep the appliqués  in place; this also led to less bloodshed while stitching).

Taking a tip I learned from Sarah Veblen, I constructed the waist facing from interfaced silk dupioni which I bound with a strip of white china silk.  This makes a really nice facing:  the silk feels more comfortable than wool and there is no bulk.

I finished the hem with some cotton lace from my stash (you can read more about the hem here).

I’m really pleased with this skirt and am sorry I finished it so late in the season that I will have to wait until next fall to wear it.  I think it will look great with black boots.  I particularly love the juxtaposition of contemporary vs. traditional in this garment.  The modern version of the paisley is a nice contrast to the more classic look of the houndstooth.  I also love that I can take an idea and tweak it to make it my own.  I think this new book in my library will offer lots of opportunity for that sort of thing in the future.

Update on Wednesday, May 16, 2012 at 9:36PM by Julie Bowersett

I came across some pictures I took back in January when I first started on this skirt.  These show the easiest way that I have found to add the seam allowance to the underlining fabric I used on this skirt.

After I cut out my fashion fabric I place the pattern on the underlining fabric.  I attach a Removable Rotary Guide Arm (made by Olfa) to my rotary cutter and set the distance from the blade to 5/8".

It is then a simple task to guide the arm along the edge of the pattern while the blade cuts 5/8" away from the edge.

Buttons, Bells, Beads and Bows

A couple of weeks ago I wrote about using my dad's old sweater to make Christmas stocking ornaments for some of my family members.  I also made some ornaments shaped like Christmas trees for my siblings (and myself) but didn't want to post pictures until I had given these gifts around New Years. 

I used a cookie cutter as my template and traced the shape onto a piece of the felted wool.  I then embellished the tree by needlefelting various yarns onto the front.  I layered the shape on another piece of sweater and stitched around the traced design.  After cutting around the edges with pinking sheers I further embellished the trees with buttons, bells, beads and bows.

My hope is that each year when the recipient hangs their ornament on their tree they will remember my dad and me.

Felted Wool Sweater Stockings

Some of you may know that my dad passed away earlier this year.  One of the things I took as a memento was an old dirty, moth-eaten and much-mended wool sweater that he used to wear.  I brought it home and threw it into the washer and dryer and felted it.

Next, I took it apart as carefully as I could.  I particularly wanted to remove the front band and pockets carefully (I put them aside for other projects).  Several years ago I downloaded a free machine embroidery design from Embroidery Garden for little Christmas stockings made from a sweater, and I knew this would be the perfect project for my dad’s sweater. 

I created a total of six stockings, each with a different color wool star (which is part of the embroidery design) on the front.  I made one for each of my dad’s grandkids (my two boys will share one) as a memento and will tuck a little note inside the stocking telling the story behind them.

This design was originally a limited-time freebie offered to members of Embroidery Garden’s Yahoo group.   Often, after the time limit for the freebie has expired, Reen will put the design on her regular site for sale.  When I was preparing this post I went looking for the design but couldn’t find it.  I sent Reen an email and she did the most awesome thing!  She posted this design (in THREE sizes) as a freebie on her site!  Thanks so much, Reen, for your generosity.  I know everyone will enjoy using this design.

The stockings are stitched using the ribbing from the sweater as the top of the stocking.  The embroidery design also lets you insert a piece of ribbon for hanging.  I forgot to do that on the first one I made so I thought I would just add the hangers later by hand.  Well, if you want a loop hanger add it as instructed.  I found it impossible to add one later in a way that looked good.  Instead I used a piece of fishing line and made a hanger so these can be used as Christmas ornaments.  (Also, note that I mirrored the design before stitching out my stockings).

I still have a lot of the sweater left and, if I can just find a few more hours this week, will be making some other little ornaments for my siblings.  When those are finished I think I will STILL have some wool left.  I’d like to think that my frugal dad would be happy to see how his old, much-loved sweater is being put to use.  My dad instilled a love of craftsmanship in me and for that I will always be grateful.  I miss him, but hope that these little tokens will help keep his memory alive for me and my family.

Bag of the Week 48

Santa Tote Bag with Tutorial

Kick off the holiday season right with a bag that will make you the envy of all of the other elves in town.  I designed this bag last year as a teacher gift, and made one for myself, too.  It is such a fun bag to carry while I do my Christmas shopping.  I used coat weight wool for the outer fabric but this would be fantastic in a quilted red satin. The belt is grossgrain ribbon, the buckle appliqued lame and the trim a hand knit I-cord.

I've written a tutorial that outlines all of the steps in constructing this bag so you can whip one up for yourself or someone special on your gift list. 

Sharing this project on Get Your Craft On! over at Today's Creative Blog.  Check out the inspiration!

Update on Tuesday, November 30, 2010 at 10:23PM by Julie Bowersett

Love it!  This post was picked up by craftgossip.com as one of their featured projects for today.  What a nice early Christmas present for me!  Check them out.

Update on Monday, December 6, 2010 at 2:36PM by Julie Bowersett

Also featured on Sassy Sites' Christmas with Fabric.  Make sure you take a look at her other "Christams with" features.  There are some darling projects on this site.

Vintage Treasures

I came home from a recent visit with my family toting some new old finds.  My sister gave me a box of old sewing patterns and a bag of wool yarn.  Now, I am not sure what, if anything, I will do with these treasures but vintage items are always fun to look at, and sometimes you learn a thing or two.

I sorted through the box of patterns and pulled out four “Big Four” patterns from the 1960’s

along with six patterns from a company called Spadea. 

Now, I had never heard of Spadea so I did a little internet research.   The most inclusive information can be found in this article at Fuzzy Lizzy Vintage Clothing.  The creators of Spadea Designer Patterns worked with fashion designers in the 1950’s and 60’s to create sewing patterns taken from ready-to-wear garments.  These patterns were unique in their sizing (using RTW sizing) and appearance – there are no printed markings on the pattern pieces, everything is punched or notched and the pattern pieces come precut. 

The previous owner of my patterns must have been a Dinah Shore fan since most of the patterns carry that stars name.

The yarn I received has an interesting history as well.  It was manufactured by the Quinnehticut Woolen Company in Taftville, CT. 

In 1995 the New York Times ran an article about the rebirth of this company under new ownership, who believed in the revitalization of the textile industry.

This lengthy article details the history of the Ponemah Mill (meaning "our future hope," from Longfellow's "Song of Hiawatha"), the mill village of Taftville (all of the original structures are still standing and on the National Historic Register) and the revival under new owners in 1990.  Sadly, it appears that the mill is no longer in operation and has been turned into luxury condos and retail space.  The wool I own looks ideal for felting, one of my favorite things to do with wool yarn.  I might also use it in a needle felting project – I have not put my embellisher to much use recently.  Regardless, I certainly have a rainbow’s worth of lovely colors to choose from.